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Violets Ionone and Orris The Flower That Disappears From Your Nose

Violets, Ionone and Orris: The Flower That Disappears From Your Nose is about Viola odorata and the compound that carries its smell. The violet is the single best case study in all of olfaction, because it demonstrates three things at once that no other flower demonstrates so cleanly: a scent that switches itself off while you are smelling it, a scent that some people genetically cannot smell at all, and a scent that is not made by the plant everyone associates with it. It also founded the modern fragrance industry. Alpha.

1. The compound

2. The vanishing act

3. The flower some people cannot smell

4. The violet that is not a violet

** Orris root — the rhizome of Iris pallida and Iris germanica. Its violet character comes from the irones (α-, β- and γ-irone), which are not present in the fresh root. They form slowly as precursors called iridals oxidise during three to five years of drying and ageing. The rhizome is then ground and distilled to orris butter. That multi-year wait makes orris one of the most expensive materials in perfumery, historically rivalling gold by weight.

** Synthetic ionones — cheap, abundant, and the reason a violet scent exists on an ordinary shelf at all.

5. The compound that started an industry

6. The violet elsewhere

7. Why this page matters to the rest of the shelf

Sources

Filed under  Plants and preparation