Library of Ashurbanipal · MELEK

Library›Plants and preparation›Standardized Extracts Enhanced Leaf and the Perfumery of Botanical Aroma

Standardized Extracts Enhanced Leaf and the Perfumery of Botanical Aroma

Standardized Extracts, Enhanced Leaf and the Perfumery of Botanical Aroma explains what the numbers on a botanical extract actually mean — what a "10×" label does and does not promise — and how aroma is built in layers the way a perfumer builds one. It covers the extract-and-redeposit method that produces enhanced leaf, the carrier materials that hold a resin, and why a standardized milligram figure is worth far more than a multiplier. Alpha.

1. What "10×" means, and what it does not

A multiplier on a botanical extract is a mass ratio, not a measured potency.

Ratio extracts versus true standardization

2. The redeposit method, and what makes it work or fail

The process is simple to describe and easy to do badly.

3. The carrier: what holds the resin

A redeposited resin needs something to live on, and the carrier decides how the finished material behaves.

4. Perfumery structure: how a scent is built

The note pyramidVolatility decides when you meet a material — and for how longTOP — minutescitrus, light aldehydes, bergamot, mintHEART — hoursrose, jasmine, spice, geraniumBASE — dayswoods, resins, musks, vanilla, orrisevaporatesA blend judged at the moment of mixing is judged on its top notes alone.Perfumers evaluate on a blotter over hours and days — the dry-down.
Volatility decides when you meet a material, and for how long.

Botanical aroma work is perfumery, and perfumery has a vocabulary worth borrowing.

5. Reading a label honestly

6. Safety, plainly

Sources

Filed under  Plants and preparation